News as of December 2007
Mexico - Week 1, Week 2, Week 3,
Back Home
We are in week two in Mexico. We have picked up KD and Ian at the
Guadalajara airport and are in Tlaquepaque (which I keep misspelling).
Everyone is napping, and I have the internet to myself, so I am going to
just reflect for a few moments.
We flew into Guadalajara at early dusk, when the city lights were just
beginning to jump out at the sky. Guadalajara is a beautiful, sparkling
city at night. It is over 5,000 feet in elevation and the temperature
drops a little at night. Even in the dusk, from the air, we could see a
long grayish, yellow cloud over much of the city. Yep, that is their
pollution. I had read that there was a lot of pollution and we saw it
from the air, but I will say, there is so much to do once you land and
get your feet on the ground, that you don't look up and if it's there,
you don't see it.
As I mentioned in week one in Mexico, we drove to Lake Chapala. I am
finally able to post those photos and here they are. All of the towns
along the north side of the Lake are architecturally beautiful, with
quaint small plazas, beautiful churches, and cobblestone streets
surrounded by adobe walls that are overflowing with gorgeous flowering
vines. When we began researching our move to Mexico, we thought about
checking into the towns of Chapala and Ajijic. Our research told us that
both towns had very large expat communities.
And that research was true to its words. We especially saw many, many
Americans and Canadians. They were everywhere, walking their dogs and
many of them were smoking cigarettes. That really surprised me, (We
rarely saw Mexicans smoking.)
We went into a small Mexican cafe on the lake. We spoke in Spanish to
order and were really enjoying the atmosphere and the Mexican music that
was playing. A group of Americans came in, and sadly, the atmosphere
changed to accommodate them. The waitress began to speak in broken
English (which we love, it gives everyone a chance to work on a new
language), but when the older American gentleman lit his cigarette and
the proprietor changed the music to an American station, we felt it was
time to hit the road.
So, now we have KD and Ian with us, and are in the heart of Tlaquepaque.
Our hotel, Quinta don Jose, was listed as a small boutique hotel and it
is true, to that description, small and quaint. But, the greatest part
is being a block away from Indepencia. This is a pedestrian street that
is about six blocks long and lined with shop after shop of the most
beautiful crafts, furniture, just everything. One big shop even has
chickens running around inside. Many of the shop proprietors live in the
backs of the stores, and occasionally a door will be open in the back of
the store to let you have a secret peek at their home. We haven't made
many purchases, but the four of us have enjoyed wandering up and down
the street or sitting in one of the plazas. The glass cactus photo was
taken outside one of the shops.
We have also been to the pueblito of Tonala. Tonala, like Tlaquepaque,
is also a part of Guadalajara. Tonala is where all the factories and
shops are that produce much of the merchandise that is found in
Tlaquepaque. This is where the artisans are and we were able to see many
of them at work. There was also a large outdoor mercado where we did
some shopping and a lot of eating. As soon as everyone is up and going,
we are off on the drive to Sayulita.
When we decided KD and Ian would fly down and meet us for Thanksgiving,
we wanted to take them to the beach. Bill and I have been to Puerta
Vallarta many times and we have seen it change over the years and what
we haven't seen we have either read about or heard from other people.
While we think it is a beautiful, and very romantic city, it was
sounding a little too big and crowded for us.
Sayulita, is probably more like what Puerta Vallarta was 30 years
ago. We had not been there before and even though it is only 25 miles
north of the Puerta Vallarta airport, believe me, on Highway 15, along
the coast, that could be a couple of hours.
The four hour drive west to the coast from Guadalajara, took a little
longer as much of the road is only 2 lanes through and over the jungle
covered hills. We were stuck behind more than a few big slow moving
trucks.
Sayulita has been discovered by retirees and a lot of young Americans as
well. But it is still very quaint and has a lot of local history and
great restaurants. The beach there is the best thing going for Sayulita.
The sand has pyrite in it and as you can see in the photo, it is a rich
bright gold. Sayulita is a very popular beginner's surfing destination.
Both of our kids are big skiers and boarders, so after their one hour
lesson, they were both up, riding the waves all the way in. One thing
the guidebooks don't tell you about is that the ocean floor at Sayulita
is rocky. So, there were a few cuts and scrapes to deal with. I only
waded in the shallow waves and never hit a rock once. I have developed a
fear of water ever since my husband made me go with him on a catamaran
to Turtle Island off the island of St Croix. The whole trip he kept
doing the 'Jaws' movie monotone, :duh,duh, duh, duh,: and you knew the
shark was coming and the kids were on the catamaran.... We never made it
to Turtle Island and I hardly ever go in the water over my knees, even
at the lake. You never know what is down there....I can't even snorkel,
seeing the fish below me scares me to death...
Our bed and breakfast, Tia Adrianna's, was a 3 story, airy home a few
blocks back from the beach. Huge windows and open air rooms made the
view gorgeous. KD and Ian shared a large room on the 3rd floor which
gave them a fantastic view of the ocean and town. We took a room on the
second floor and the four of us spent a lot of time on the balconies
playing gin rummy.
After a few days on the beach, and lots of wonderful breakfasts at Tia
Adrianna's, we did the four hour drive again, and back in Guadalajara,
we stayed at El Tapatia, which is a very old hotel up on a hill
overlooking the city of Guadalajara.
I can hardly believe how much internet time I am getting. Plus we have
figured out how to make our laptop work, well, the kids helped us figure
that out. We bought three different battery cables at three different
Wal-Mart's in Mexico before we got the right one.
We have just returned from the airport where we put KD and Ian on the
plane back to Denver. Tomorrow we begin the 3rd week of our journey. We
have decided to return to Alamos and give it another try. We absolutely
love the town, but what about the noise? Already we wonder will it still
be the noisy little town it was when we left? If we choose to live
there, maybe we can live a few blocks up from all the circling cars,
trumpets, and radios blaring? We don't mind crowing roosters.......
Click on any image to enlarge.
The
plaza church in the town of Chapala. There is a small outdoor mercada
this side of the wall.
Excursions
on these boats can take you from the Chapala pier out to Scorpion Island
or Mezcala Island. These are very long trips (2-6 hours) and we passed,
but the boats are all colorful. Of course, many of these are fishing
boats and the fishermen still use the graceful butterfly nets to catch
small whitefish.
We
thought Lago de Chapala or as it is more commonly known, Lake Chapala,
was very pretty. The mountains surround the lake and the streets are
very colorful. The lake is not low as we had heard it has been in
previous years. The water hiacynth seems under control. We did find lots
and lots foreigners here, both in Chapala and Ajijic. The foreigners
call this north side of the lake, "Lakeside".
This
is a hallway at Nueve de Posada, a very old hotel on Lake Chapala.I
think they are waiting for the right pot for the plant. you have to stay
here when you take your trip to the lake. It's only 45 minutes south of
the Guadalajara airport.
This
is the courtyard inside Quinta Don Jose. The small hotel is located in
Talaquepaque and is like an oasis in the dessert, a little jewel of a
place. All around it, outside, is the hustle and bustle of Talaquepaque,
a southern "suburb" of Guadalajara. I say suburb, but I am not sure that
is the right term. Guadalajara is huge and all of its outerlying towns
melt into it and make it seem even bigger. I would enjoy spending more
time in Guadalajara. It is a very exciting town, but,it is huge, over
3.5 million people just in the metropolitan-zone.
We
flew in and out of the hermosillo airport several times before we
realized there were airports closer to Alamos. We drove through San
carlos Bay several times enroute to Alamos. The mountains here are
beautiful. They go right down into the Sea of Cortez. This is where we
felt we had turned north to the states. Lots and lots of Americans were
here.
Beachside
at Sayulita. Everyone has a surf board. If they are not on it in the
water, they are sitting on it or laying on it on the beach.
The
gorgeous sparkling sand at Sayulita. It is full of mica, (fools gold),
and the beach is a constant golden shimmer. it is so beautiful. I really
wanted to take this beach home with me.
Ian
is about to take one of the big ones.
lots
of surfers are waiting for the big ones
.
A
pretty photo of a Sayulita hillside.
This
is one of our views from Tia Adriann's in Sayulita. In this photo you
can see this home's rooftop cistern, where water is kept. You can also
see how gorgeous the palm trees are here. The water is beyond.
I
couldn't pass up the opportunity to make our kids, KD and Ian, sit in a
glass cactus. This is in Talaquepaque. The shopping in Talaquepaque is
unbelievable. There are so many beautifully handcrafted items here. The
shops are very beautifully decorated and very authentic, gorgeous
Mexican architecture is here. There is a long pedestrian street that is
full of fun shops and this street leads to the plaza.
Watch for more news from week 3.
Live for color and the rhythm it creates
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